Chisos Basin - Big Bend

Our drive into Chisos Basin in the center of Big Bend National Park was spectacular. We followed Tom and Donna over a very steep and winding pass not recommended for trailers over 20' or vans over 23’. Glad we are small, as so are the camping sites. 

This huge high-country bowl at 5200’ is surrounded on all sides by craggy 6000-7000’ peaks. It is a green island in a sea of desert.  At the end of the last ice age many plants and animals were stranded here as the colder moister climates retreated northward. This isolation results in a large variety of plants and trees that are either out of their normal range, or that grow only here, such as the Chisos Oak and the drooping juniper.

This bowl has a ‘window’ to the west where the drainage spills out during flash floods. These are called ‘pour outs’ and there are several in other places in this park, but this was one of the largest and the easiest one to access. This basin holds most of the black bears and mountain lions in the park, as the surrounding areas are lower elevation open desert floor.  Last year, because of the dry conditions, there were a lot of aggressive cougar encounters in this basin including a child being snatched off the sidewalk in front of their parents at the motel-like resort by the visitors center. We walked this area at the end of the ½ mile trail from our campground to the visitor center and were impressed with how bold/desperate the cougar must have been. It seemed very public and open.  (And yes, the parents got the child back with a small struggle and minor injuries).

So the warnings are not to hike alone, don’t hike at dawn or dusk, and do not take children on the trails…. at all. Made us a little wary, but we hiked the areas trails and did not see a thing. We even sat and scanned the hillside meadows with binocs and still no big sightings. They say it has been a better year for moisture so the animals are having an easier time. 

The trail to the ‘window’ was about 4 ½ miles round trip through the canyon floor with the last ¼ mile over rock steps cut into the canyon sides and in and out of the small stream. A little slick in places as the water has smoothed and polished the surfaces and then a spectacular view to the west over a 2000+ foot drop to the desert floor below. A breathtaking view in many ways. And not a place to be in the threat of rain/flash flood as there is no escape and you would be taking the big Niagra Falls like ride over the edge. All together an amazing place. Flowers are in bloom everywhere, and the weather is in the low 80’s in the day and a very comfortable low 60’s at night. In shorts and sandals full time. 

 The next day, after a spectacular sunrise,  Tom, Donna, and Steve took off early for the 10 ½ mile round trip hike to climb the 7800+ ft Mount Emory where the views were even more spectacular. The step rock step trail ends in a small rock climb/scramble at the top and 360 degree views.

 It was fun to hang out for several days and hike the mountain trails with the Rankins. Both Tom and Donna are playing music and singing at our evening camps, and our 4-handed/partners nightly cribbage tournaments (with chocolate) were a great way to finish off some beautiful days. So they are off to return north through New Mexico, and we are heading down to the Rio Grande side of Big Bend to see what it is all about.